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A Simple Weave, Not So Simple

March 11th 2023
 
Cornell 2023 NYC Fashion Expo Winner
C-Idea International Design Competition Winner


Concept and Research
The jacket boasts slightly flared sleeves and a dramatic lapel, while the pants have a wide-legged silhouette and two large pleats that reference various fashion eras, from the 20s to the 70s. The weaving technique brings a futuristic element to the retro design, alluding to the original creation of fabric and the simple weave technique used around the world.
The garment was originally inspired by the issue of fabric waste and pollution caused by donations and fast fashion in Ghana, as part of my Cornell Global Development final project. Further research into the process of fabric creation during my Fibers, Fabrics, and Finishes class sparked an interest in the weaving process. The extensive research highlighted the intricacies and time-consuming nature of weaving different fibers into fabric. Thus, the garment not only celebrates the weaving process but also aims to draw attention to the efforts of individuals who create fabric for designers and companies worldwide.
 
 Mood/Concept Board

Using, Kaledo Weave, a computer software, I visualized and figured out how I could mimic a plain weave on a large scale. I also used the program to decide the width of fabric strips and the spacing between the fabrics.






 
Design Process
The jacket and pants of this garment feature a striking hand-weaving detail created using over 150 strips of 2-yard length fabric. I cut each strip, folded and sewed shut, flipped each tube, ironed, and then arranged them in a plain weave pattern with 1/2" holes. The size and shape of the woven pieces were purposefully aligned with the pattern pieces to minimize fabric waste.

Technical Flats Using Adobe Illustrator
 
Design walked the runway during Cornell's Annual Cornell Fashion Collective's Spring 2023 show.

 

The design was entered into the C-Idea 2023 International Design Competition and won the Design Award 2023.













 

References

Besser, L. (2021, October 21). 'dead white man's clothes': The dirty secret behind the world's fashion addiction. ABC News. Retrieved October 21, 2022, from https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-08-12/fast-fashion-turning-parts-ghana-into-toxic-landfill/100358702

Swanson, A. (2021, November 25). Why trying to help poor countries might actually hurt them. The Washington Post. Retrieved October 21, 2022, from https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/wonk/wp/2015/10/13/why-trying-to-help-poor-countries-might-actually-hurt-them/

Unsplash. “Beautiful Free Images & Pictures.” Unsplash, https://unsplash.com/.

 


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